Monday, March 31, 2014

Graffiti in Valencia

Valencia is an amazing city filled with amazing graffiti.  As we walked around the city we instantly noticed the crazy amount of top-notch guerrilla murals.  Hard to know exactly what conditions make it a hotbed of great graffiti but no other city we have visited so far has had even a fraction as much.  Below is a portion of the sweet graffiti pictures I took while we were there.

This is the alley/side street in front of our hotel.


The three below were in the nook at the back of the alley seen above.




Whoever did the three pieces pictured below is my favorite.  The first two were on the same street and the third one was across town.




We stopped to check out this old abandoned and dilapidated warehouse on our bike ride.  Not surprisingly it was filled with a bunch of cool graffiti.





And here are a several more randoms from throughout town . . .



















Saturday, March 29, 2014

Two nights in Lyon

We arrived by train in Lyon, France, and hopped on the tram to our hotel, the Axotel Perrache. It was exceptionally modern compared to our previous night in Carcassonne.
 
 
 
We headed out for dinner toward the direction of Bellecour. We found almost no bars or restaurants until we finally hit the jackpot at La Rue Mercière, the dining street in Lyon. Unfortunately, most of the places were either exceptionally pricey or closing up. We found a bar along the water with a beautiful view. So we grabbed a drink then made the trek back to our hotel. The up side was that we saw a lot of the city. As usual we settled on kebabs as our fallback for dinner. All of the shops had the same menu, which included the “American” with three hamburger patties and fries on a baguette.  Many of the places served most of their sandwiches with French fries in the sandwich.
La Rue Mercière
Night view of Lyon
Jason's chicken kebab w/fries and Algerian sauce
The next morning was riddled with booking hotels and trains for the next weeks of our trip. (Thank you, strong hotel wifi!) We have been using www.capitainetrain.com, recommended by www.seat61.com, to book our trains. The site sends you an email explaining your ticket then emails you an electronic copy of your ticket and a calendar reminder. The explanation of your ticket is very helpful, as our ticket for Germany was at first almost indecipherable.  We still ended up using www.raileurope.com occasionally as they inexplicably seem to have different routes sometimes.
We crossed the river for a run through the Museum of the Resistance and Deportation. It was a mix of his and hers including a women’s fashion in times of war exhibit and the main exhibit on Lyon’s role in the resistance. It was a great perspective on the role France played in WWII, though pretty much only the video interviews were translated.  Jason was disappointed there were only three guns in the exhibit and zero lapel knives or cyanide capsules or other cool resistance stuff. #historynerd
Next up, we headed up to the Roman ruins and the Basilica we had seen from the water the night before. At a small garden halfway up we stopped at a garden with a great view (and Jason almost dropped is sunglasses off the mountain). We got to the ruins just 30 minutes before closing time. Two massive amphitheaters stand at the site of what was then called Lugdunum, the roman capital of Gaul.  The bigger of the two is estimated to have been able to seat 11,000.  We made it to the top but the cathedral was closed. We wandered back down the mountainside through a series of trails then took a shortcut through a very steep staircase. (One gentleman raced down it with his hands in his pockets and I wanted to teach him about the importance of using the handrail and HOOP [Hands Out of Pockets] but I do not know how to nerd out on safety in French.)

We agreed that if we were going to spend money on one fancy meal, it would be France.   Jason was extra excited because traditional Lyonnaise fair is very heavy on Offal (weird parts of the animal). For 17-29 euros, you got a three course meal. I let Jason order and told him I didn’t want to know what parts or what animal I was eating. We both agreed, while it was delicious, the salad was the best. Our tab was only 63 euros in the end; not bad considering it was two 3-course meals of monstrous portions and a bottle of wine.

Now we are on to Munich, Germany!
Jason securing his sunglasses
A view from el jardin

Look at all these marble tiles

Concert seating

Originally there was a large wall that would be blocking this view


More of the ruins
Hoop! Hoop!

Little Prince statue in Bellecour

1st course of salad and crawfish pate

Braised beef and bacon

Pike quenelles

Chocolate mousse

Cheesecake

Friday, March 28, 2014

Carcassonne: Just turn right at the castle.

Hard right at the castle entrance
We arrived by train late in the evening in Carcassonne in France. Our Google map directions seemed pretty straight forward . . . until a “hard right” onto Notre Dame got us lost. Maren thought I had lost my mind when I turned us directly into the city’s massive stone ramparts. (She didn't know our hotel was located in the walled-in (i.e., old-timey) part of town.)


We wandered around stone walls and stone gates, still no sign of our hotel, Le Logis des Remparts. We eventually wandered back out of the stone mayhem and asked for directions at a new-timey hotel nearby (kudos for having the game Carcassonne in the lobby!). The front desk assistant unveiled to us a map of La Cite; the walled-in city of Carcassonne. Everything was clear and we returned to the castle city to find our hotel. The owner was kind enough to leave us a note and key to our room, which itself was located up some also very old-timey spiral wooden and stone steps.

By the time we went looking for dinner, nearly everything was closed. We had read that things close earlier in France. We spotted a bar/tattoo place, and a guy leaving the joint told me, “Mange bon!” meaning good eats, so we went in. All they were serving was a cheeseburger and fries but luckily it was the best burger we have had in Europe, and probably one of the top in America.  Also on the way back to the hotel we stopped into a gas station and found curry flavored potato chips, which did not disappoint.



They next morning we toured the main castle and the north ramparts, which included some old roman towers.  It was really impressive and Maren let me spend a lot of time staring, taking pictures and imagining shooting invaders with a crossbow.

Next up: Lyon for our last nights in France, then it’s onward through Switzerland to Germany.
A mystery wicker creature - octopus? squirrel baby? 
The ramparts at night
Le Logis des Remparts
View from our room
View of the lower ramparts
Barbican
The Hoarding

Backside of the hoarding
North ramparts, including an old Roman tower
Bienvenue a Carcassonne
Stopping for a drink before we catch our train