Showing posts with label planning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label planning. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Lessons Learned


Now that the jet lag has worn off - how did it go, what did we learn and what can we do better next time? Here is a data dump of things we learned in our first time backpacking in Europe.

Language – Pack a list of common phrases, particularly transportation (train station, gate, seat), common signs (open, closed, entrance, exit), destinations, food and drinks. Instead of printing, we saved a list to my phone so we could update it as needed.  Also, study with www.duolingo.com. I studied Spanish for years and Jason only a few months on Duolingo and he nailed it in Spain.

Toilets – If you don't have to pay to pee, you probably don't want to. The difference between a pay toilet and a public toilet is noticeable, to put it politely. We stopped for plenty of drinks just to use a restaurant bathroom.

Rain gear – Tote garbage bags or waterproof sacks to cover your packs. Thanks for that lesson, San Sebastian. We live in the desert so we did need some learning in this area. My waterproof, hooded jacket was perfect. We considered an umbrella but fortunately most of our hotels loaned them out.


Printing – Electronic tickets save a lot of time at the train station and museum kiosks. Ask the hotel first if they can help you print. Some may print a page or two for free. Otherwise we found most shops cost about 0.15 Euro per page. If we couldn’t spot one on the street, we searched on Yelp for printing and internet services.  

Transportation – You usually have to validate your ticket but it is not always clear how or when.  Also, it helps to know the name of the final stop of the bus or train you are boarding as that is often all that is listed.  Often the train number is the easiest piece of information to use to find your train. Read your tickets in advance – our tickets for Germany and Budapest were almost indecipherable in another language. Also, there may be no seat listed because it is open seating in some trains’ second class.  


Payment – Pay in cash. Our Charles Schwab debit card, with no international or ATM fees, was also excellent. My Chase Sapphire preferred credit card with a chip was only OK. Europe uses the chip-and-pin system; the Sapphire card is a chip and signature. Some machines wouldn't take it, and it confused some vendors, which meant in most countries we rarely bothered with it.


Laundry – We did small items by hand with a Tide packet or bar of soap. (Note: Girl undies dry faster than dudes'.)  Don't do pants or heavy shirts unless you have days to dry or heated drying rack. And the rumor is true, you will sniff your clothes and shrug off washing them much more than you’d like to admit.


Hotels/hostels – Unless you are staying at major hotels, read the fine print and call or email ahead of time. In Budapest, we would've been stranded had we not. While it was frustrating at first (since we didn’t have cell service), these types of places turned out to be our favorite.

Smartphone – You can buy phones or phone cards. We happened to have a Motorola Xprt that is unlocked for international service. Check with your carrier for phones with that capability. Theoretically we could have purchased an international SIM card or purchased an international plan from Sprint. However, we opted for wifi and Skype. The Skype app allows you to make phone calls for approximately 2 cents per minute (varies by country). This worked but we were occasionally stuck without access to the internet when we were out on the town and needed to look something up (i.e., happy hour).

Security – Wherever you are, just assume you will get mugged. This means separating money and cards and passports so if one bag gets stolen, not everything goes at once. I carry a small wallet in my front pocket clipped to my belt loop or clipped to a pocket I had sewn inside my jacket. Jason carries his wallet in his front pocket and just keeps his hand in his pocket in crowded/sketchy places. We always lock our passports and laptop in our packs or safe in the hotel. On trains or busses, we hook our bags together so if someone did try to snatch them, they have to snatch a clumsy 50-pound mass. 



Locks – These add a layer of security to deter thieves. Unfortunately our Kelty Redwing packs do not have lockable zippers and we had to manufacture our own. Jason did so using his quality chainmail skills. Our packs are now medieval meets backpacker chic.


Down time – We appreciate the idea of going off the grid, but with our inability to plan ahead, there is always down time when we huddle behind our laptop and smartphone screens. It takes a joint effort to Yelp, Tripadvisor and Google all at the same time. We just tried to do it during rainy days or at pubs. Research (and blogging) will eat up some of your time but consider that time to rest your feet.


Lastly, and most importantly: S--t happens. All of our best laid plans got messed up. Our debit card was late in the mail. My chip came off my credit card. Jason lost his allen wrench for his camera gun. I dropped my phone in a glass of water. Our train tickets did not arrive by email. Jason's camera bag is now tied and safety pinned together. I wore a hole through my Converses and our day bag. It rained every time we planned outdoorsy stuff. The list goes on . . .


Whatever happens, remember you are on vacation and you volunteered for the adventure. (i.e., no one will sympathize because XYZ happened while you were backpacking through Europe).  Things will go wrong, get lost and/or break.  Traveling is not always easy but in some ways that is part of its charm.  Remember that time you missed your ferry and got stuck in a weird little town in Wales?  It might be easy to get upset and frustrated but if you roll with it, you might find it is one of the most unique experiences of your trip.  You might also discover the best happy hour in Great Britain.

Next up? Photos, behind the scenes and the final tally on what this trip really cost.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Two nights in Lyon

We arrived by train in Lyon, France, and hopped on the tram to our hotel, the Axotel Perrache. It was exceptionally modern compared to our previous night in Carcassonne.
 
 
 
We headed out for dinner toward the direction of Bellecour. We found almost no bars or restaurants until we finally hit the jackpot at La Rue Mercière, the dining street in Lyon. Unfortunately, most of the places were either exceptionally pricey or closing up. We found a bar along the water with a beautiful view. So we grabbed a drink then made the trek back to our hotel. The up side was that we saw a lot of the city. As usual we settled on kebabs as our fallback for dinner. All of the shops had the same menu, which included the “American” with three hamburger patties and fries on a baguette.  Many of the places served most of their sandwiches with French fries in the sandwich.
La Rue Mercière
Night view of Lyon
Jason's chicken kebab w/fries and Algerian sauce
The next morning was riddled with booking hotels and trains for the next weeks of our trip. (Thank you, strong hotel wifi!) We have been using www.capitainetrain.com, recommended by www.seat61.com, to book our trains. The site sends you an email explaining your ticket then emails you an electronic copy of your ticket and a calendar reminder. The explanation of your ticket is very helpful, as our ticket for Germany was at first almost indecipherable.  We still ended up using www.raileurope.com occasionally as they inexplicably seem to have different routes sometimes.
We crossed the river for a run through the Museum of the Resistance and Deportation. It was a mix of his and hers including a women’s fashion in times of war exhibit and the main exhibit on Lyon’s role in the resistance. It was a great perspective on the role France played in WWII, though pretty much only the video interviews were translated.  Jason was disappointed there were only three guns in the exhibit and zero lapel knives or cyanide capsules or other cool resistance stuff. #historynerd
Next up, we headed up to the Roman ruins and the Basilica we had seen from the water the night before. At a small garden halfway up we stopped at a garden with a great view (and Jason almost dropped is sunglasses off the mountain). We got to the ruins just 30 minutes before closing time. Two massive amphitheaters stand at the site of what was then called Lugdunum, the roman capital of Gaul.  The bigger of the two is estimated to have been able to seat 11,000.  We made it to the top but the cathedral was closed. We wandered back down the mountainside through a series of trails then took a shortcut through a very steep staircase. (One gentleman raced down it with his hands in his pockets and I wanted to teach him about the importance of using the handrail and HOOP [Hands Out of Pockets] but I do not know how to nerd out on safety in French.)

We agreed that if we were going to spend money on one fancy meal, it would be France.   Jason was extra excited because traditional Lyonnaise fair is very heavy on Offal (weird parts of the animal). For 17-29 euros, you got a three course meal. I let Jason order and told him I didn’t want to know what parts or what animal I was eating. We both agreed, while it was delicious, the salad was the best. Our tab was only 63 euros in the end; not bad considering it was two 3-course meals of monstrous portions and a bottle of wine.

Now we are on to Munich, Germany!
Jason securing his sunglasses
A view from el jardin

Look at all these marble tiles

Concert seating

Originally there was a large wall that would be blocking this view


More of the ruins
Hoop! Hoop!

Little Prince statue in Bellecour

1st course of salad and crawfish pate

Braised beef and bacon

Pike quenelles

Chocolate mousse

Cheesecake

Friday, March 14, 2014

Tell me more

I honestly enjoy hearing everyone's unique lists of must-sees and don't-sees in the states or abroad. My desk and inbox are comically cluttered with travel tips. Jason's Reddit-ing has also been incredibly helpful (thank you everyone at /r/travel!) We needed to write it all down in one place, so I thought I would share it here as well. Thank you to everyone who has so graciously shared with us! (Note: These are not endorsements, they may not be accurate, and they may not even be spelled right.)

Packing
  • Advice varies from 20 to 64L packs. We settled on 50L.
  • www.duolingo.com to practice your foreign language skills. (I reached 1949XP in Italian!)
  • Lay out everything you want to take and cut it in half. 
  • Bring an unlocked GSM phone. Oddly, one of my old ones will work for this.
  • Small detergent packs, clothes line and a drain stopper to do laundry in the hotel.
  • One book - ditch it when you're done and pick up a new one at a used book store.
  • Travel-sized toilet paper roll and duct tape roll.
  • Pull out only the relative pages or maps instead of bringing entire travel guides.
  • NO JEANS - a rule we are both ignoring because who doesn't wear jeans on vacation?
Spain
  • Tapas, tapas, tapas!
  • Drink tinto de verano, not sangria.
  • Fallas de Valencia - we're kicking off our trip with this festival. 
  • 100 Montaditos
  • Churros (with hot chocolate)
  • National armory in Madrid
  • La Ciudad de Las Artes y Las Ciencias
  • Turron (honey, sugar, egg whites toasted with almonds)
France
Germany
  • Beer, beer, beer.
  • Hofbrauhaus - Epic beer hall
  • BMW factory
  • Beer and sausages. Stick to local Bavarian Beers. Urban myth is they can't contain nasty chemicals, reducing the likelihood for hangovers. 
  • Starkbierzeit, strong beer festival
  • Radler (beer and carbonated lemonade) for non-beer drinkers like me.
  • Neuschwanstein Castle (the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty's castle)
Austria
  • Sachertorte - chocolate cake must-have in Vienna.
  • Salzburg - setting for the Sound of Music.
Switzerland
  • Chocolate
  • Interlaken
  • Matterhorn
  • Beautiful but extremely expensive.
  • Bern has bears.
Budapest
  • Ruin Pubs - abandoned buildings turned into pubs. Two of my favorite things combined!
  • Great Market in the stain station
  • Hungarian baths
  • Budapest castle
  • Funicular - vertical railway established in 1870
  • Opera house
  • New York Cafe
Slovenia
  • All sources seem in agreement that Bled is the place to go.
  • Ljubljana - City of Dragons. Yes, DRAGONS.
  • Metelkova - reformed site of former military barracks.
  • Hotel Celica - established in a former military prison in Metelkova in Ljubljana.
  • Boat to Italy.
Italy
  • It seems like everyone who visits leaves with a lifelong love affair with the country. 
  • Caffe and pasta
  • Gelato. Sounds like if you get nothing else but gelato, the trip is well worth it.
  • Climb the Duomo in Florence.
  • Uffizi gallery
  • Walking tour
This is a random collection of the many things we've heard lately and we appreciate every bit of it. With just a few days to go, our itinerary is still undefined so please feel free to keep sharing your tips and recommendations!

Monday, March 10, 2014

The Five Resources We Found the Most Useful

We have books. But the internet won.

1.  r/travel

I spent countless hours on the travel subreddit.  I posted numerous questions (where to stay in Madrid and the best way to get from Budapest to Ljubljana, etc.) and got loads of feedback.  My pack is 2.5 lbs lighter because of advice people gave me when I posted my packing list.

It's hard to overstate how useful a resource r/travel can be, both for getting advice about specific issues as well as browsing the posts to get inspiration for your next trip.

2.  Google Docs

We have numerous Google Docs shared between the two of us.  You can access them from anywhere, from work or from your phone.  We have a couple packing lists and still-need-to-do lists.  We have one that is just random future travel notes/links.

Here is an example of the way we used them.  This is the main Google Doc we used to compile all the info we found.  It is full of links to blogs and Tripadvisor reviews of hotels and huge paragraphs I have copy and pasted from Reddit as well as lots of advice and notes from various friends and family.

3.  Rick Steves

His website has a lot of good packing advice.  His youtube channel has cool videos about pretty much every destination in Europe.  He also has a radio show on the weekends on NPR, which is the reason that Basque country is on our itinerary.

4.  Rome2rio

Rome2rio is a crazy useful site for planning transportation.  It gives you a list of all the options to get between two places.  If you type in Valencia>Dublin it will give you the cost and time to fly, to drive or take a bus (and ferry).  It will also give you the price to take the train to Madrid and fly out of there.  And if you have multiple destinations it will do this for each leg of your trip.

5.  Hipmunk

My favorite site to search for flights. Apparently run by a cool chipmunk with intimate knowledge of the airline industry.   It lays out all your options on a big, readable timeline/graph.  It has the options to sort results by arrival, departure, duration, price or agony.

Honorable Mention - seat61.com  is a really great resource for info about rail travel in Europe.  As mentioned previously, I've only booked one pair of train tickets so far and this site has already saved us more than $100.

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

He Said/She Said: Our top 5s

It's not surprising that Jason and I look forward to very different things when we travel. If you've met us, you know we have very different tastes in general: Xbox vs. exercise. Sci-fi vs. celebrity gossip. Girl Talk All Night vs. Girl Talk Feed the Animals. So, what about when it comes to vacations?
UK Train STation
Train Station

She Said: Maren's Travel Top 5
1. Public transportation. Planes, trains and the tube. Buses, bicycles and boats. On this trip, we'll spend more than 48 hours cumulative on the move. It's a great opportunity to see the local community and beat your boyfriend at cribbage. (Although that only seems to work for me on ferries.)

2. Signs. Whether stateside or abroad, I always enjoy a clever, hilarious or misspelled sign.

3. Shopping. I don't buy much but I can window shop all day. Not big department stores but odd places like Tescos, co-ops and random boot sales (UK boot sale, like US flea markets).

Cliffs of Mohr
Watch your Step
4. Pop culture. I wish I was classier but I always grab a celebrity magazine and love finding out what's popular/ridiculous (hello Katie and Peter in England) or what odd US things have found an audience abroad.

5. Mini adventures. I usually don't cause these - it's all Jason. He finds quirky offshoots to our itinerary. In Ireland, it was pulling over at the Moat of Ardscull. We originally blew by it at 120kmh then returned to (jump a stone wall fence and) tour the remains of a hill fort from the 13th century.

(http://www.lampredotto-firenze.it/lampredotto.html
He Said: Jason's Travel Top 5 

1. Weird Food. Especially weird street food like this Panijno con il lampredetto (a tripe sandwich popular in Florence. Tripe = intestine). Best yet was ackee in Jamaica (which Maren's Googling suggested could cause Jamaican vomiting sickness and/or death, but it was delicious and we obviously survived).


2. Markets. I love shopping for food in foreign countries. Whether it is just a candy bar and a pre-made sandwich from a small convenience store (i.e., a chicken baguette from Londis) or fresh produce from a big public market like the Central Market in Budapest pictured here.

3. Booze. I like booze.  Especially foreign booze.  Good, cheap wine in Spain.  Beer in Munich. Palinka from Hungary.  These are things I look forward to.

4. History. I LOVE history.  So much bad-ass stuff happened in the past!  Carcassonne.  Roman ruins in Lyon.  Maren will have to suffer through more armor museums than is probably healthy.

5. Going rogue on Maren's itinerary. I love wandering.  Along waterfronts, through parks and city streets, down alleys, etc.  I like finding weird shops and bars and people.


So.....What's on your Travel Top 5?

Having a beer in Warrington, England

Monday, March 3, 2014

Wherein our protagonist Jason learns a valuable lesson about shopping around

So I needed to book our train tickets from Valencia to Madrid.  Especially because Valencia's population swells by a million people during Falles so a lot of people will be trying to scurry out shortly after the festival.

So I was about to click purchase on raileurope.com . . .

When I, rather uncharacteristically, thought  "Hey.  Maybe I should look at a couple of different sites first."  After another stop or two, I searched on the very similarly named raileurope-world.com and found the exact same tickets for a fraction of the cost . . .














The difference is just over $125.

Now I think my MUCH cheaper tickets are etched in stone but I am okay with that.

Also let me give a shout out to seat61.com which is the extremely useful website that led me to the second, cheaper tickets.  I really can't overstate how useful this site is in gathering info about and navigating European rail systems.

Friday, February 28, 2014

Mixing Business and Pleasure

As I will be travelling with my camera (a Canon T3i rigged for video), I decided to contact the hotels and hostels we have booked so far (Valencia and Madrid) and see if they were interested in swapping my services as a videographer for their roof over our head.  I thought it might be a good way to save a little money but more importantly I thought it would be a unique opportunity to meet and interact with people.

This morning I got an email back from Felipe at the Way Hostel in Madrid (http://www.wayhostel.com/) -

Hey Jason, thanks for contacting.  
We were on our way to develop a video(s) for the hostel, so your colaboration will be much appreciated.  
Do you think you can make something in 2 days? Did you make the booking already?  
Kindest regards,
Felipe
Sounds like they are interested!  Hopefully we can work something out.  I will post more updates about my attempts to ply my trade overseas as they happen.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Packing Test

With three weeks until take-off, we had a heavy weight on our shoulders - literally. Our Kelty Redwing packs were overloaded. Jason's camera bag alone weighs 5 lbs. and his obligatory suit jacket isn't much lighter. Obviously my dainty lady stuff weighs nothing and I don't need to downsize. #delusional

We've heard that you should lay out everything you want to take and then get rid of half of it. (Cue Tenacious D: "Take two of the nuggets and throw them away!") Out went the excess socks, underwear, and t-shirts. I lost a skirt and leggings and two shirts. Of course, in repacking we also gained gear we left out in our first packing test. Universal plugins, my camera and charger, cards and a cribbage board, etc. I am not sure we actually lost weight but we did make room for some actual necessities (we don't go anywhere without cribbage).

Here are the results:

 Two Kelty Redwings ~50L




Jason's stuff 
Maren's stuff (I promise it weighs less than Jason's!)




Stay tuned for our next iteration!

-m-